|
|
 |
Author |
|
| Message | |
|
Henbant
Joined: 04 Oct 2014
Posts: 8
|
|
|
|
 |
Bodger
Joined: 23 May 2006
Posts: 13524
|
|
|
|
|
Tavascarow
Joined: 06 Aug 2006
Posts: 8407
Location: South Cornwall
|
|
|
|
|
tahir
Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 45674
Location: Essex
|
|
|
|
|
Rob R
Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 31902
Location: York
|
|
|
|
|
dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 46235
Location: yes
|
|
|
|
|
Mistress Rose
Joined: 21 Jul 2011
Posts: 15985
|
 Posted: Tue Oct 20, 15 6:16 am Post subject: |
 
|
The modern tantalised posts aren't much good these days, although there are some that are supposed to have a 10 year guarantee. Don't think they have been going 10 years yet though, so no proof. The old tantalising contained copper, chrome and arsenic, but the modern one only contains copper, and just isn't generally man enough for the job. The suggestions others have made about extending the life might work, but most of the compounds used might be tricky to get hold of these days.
Unfortunately for you the choice is possibly local softwood or chestnut from a long distance. The chestnut should last really well, but difficult to decide about the transport. We are fortunate in that we can get chestnut posts from just down the road, as the chestnut grows within 5 miles of us just over the border in Sussex.
Don't know what sort of fence you are thinking of putting up, but be aware that a solid fence will be hit harder by the wind than one that the wind can blow though. If it is post and wire, no problem of course. |
|
|
|
|
Ty Gwyn
Joined: 22 Sep 2010
Posts: 4613
Location: Lampeter
|
|
|
|
|
gregotyn
Joined: 24 Jun 2010
Posts: 2201
Location: Llanfyllin area
|
|
|
|
|
Ty Gwyn
Joined: 22 Sep 2010
Posts: 4613
Location: Lampeter
|
|
|
|
|
gregotyn
Joined: 24 Jun 2010
Posts: 2201
Location: Llanfyllin area
|
| Posted: Thu Oct 22, 15 2:55 pm Post subject: |
|
I've done a bit of homework, well asked the friend who just happened to have a delivery of creosote when I was there. His method of treating posts is to do it all under cover in a south facing open fronted barn. He allows the posts to dry, he sometimes buys them 3-4 months before he wants to fence, then, after a month he gets an empty 200ltr drum and puts the posts to be treated in-all the same way up, (tops exposed and points in the tub). He then fills the drum with creosote the level of creosote goes down as they take it in and the treatment rises up the posts well above the creosote level, as the posts suck the stuff up. After 2 weeks he takes the posts out of the drum and puts them in an old bath where they drain off for 2-3 days; then he restacks them into the drum pointy end up and repeats the process, fill creosote and leave for a couple of weeks or more if he is not in a hurry. He then uses the posts, after a couple of months draining and drying.
You have to be a farmer-trading as a registered holding, to be eligible I am told by my local dealer, who had just made a delivery to my friends, but I have never had problems with buying the stuff. My friend's father always did his posts like this and son is carrying on the same way. The longest they have lasted he says is 20 years. The most important thing is to get the posts as dry as you can and not to skimp the job. The 'lad' said that he likes to buy the posts in summer and to have them ready for winter fencing. My initial post was incorrect when I said such a short time in the drum and drying. His theory is that fencing starts about 6 months before you start putting in posts! He also says the initial drying out period is important which is why he buys way ahead of the fencing to get the posts dry and to allow a long drying out time after treating.
They has been doing this for a long time and it works for them. |
|
|
|
|
Nick
Joined: 02 Nov 2004
Posts: 34535
Location: Hereford
|
|
|
|
|
dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 46235
Location: yes
|
|
|
|
|
Nick
Joined: 02 Nov 2004
Posts: 34535
Location: Hereford
|
|
|
|
|
|
View Latest Posts