Preserved timber

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Preserved timber

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Nick

Joined: 02 Nov 2004
Posts: 34535
Location: Hereford

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 15 8:04 am Post subject: Preserved timber

im putting down some decking. I need joists. I have a large stack of timber bought for building a stable, which hasn't been done. But it's regular sawn, smooth and pressure treated timber. Is the preservative treatment on this going to be comparable to the stuff they use on the rough sawn stuff that would normally be used for things like fencing panels or exterior beams?

I can use it as is, spend more money I don't have, or, potentially, creosote this wood.

Thoughts?

Falstaff

Joined: 27 May 2009
Posts: 1014

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 15 8:09 am Post subject:
Creosote evry time - (Just to annoy the EU ! )

Hairyloon

Joined: 20 Nov 2008
Posts: 15425
Location: Today I are mostly being in Yorkshire.

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 15 9:00 am Post subject:
I would think that if it is pressure treated, then it is pressure treated.

wellington womble

Joined: 08 Nov 2004
Posts: 15051
Location: East Midlands

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 15 9:27 am Post subject:
Just for the joists, not the deck itself? Regular stuff is treacherously slippy after a year or two. Ask me how I know!

vegplot

Joined: 19 Apr 2007
Posts: 21301
Location: Bethesda, Gwynedd

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 15 9:34 am Post subject:
It should be fine. Keep it dry if you can.

BahamaMama

Joined: 21 Sep 2006
Posts: 2315
Location: Away with the fairies

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 15 9:51 am Post subject:

wellington womble wrote:

Just for the joists, not the deck itself? Regular stuff is treacherously slippy after a year or two. Ask me how I know!

Ah, the deck rink.....

dpack

Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 46238
Location: yes

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 15 10:21 am Post subject:

it should be ok but as you should dip any cut ends in preservative it is easy to give it all a coat while it is loose sticks.if they are lying next to each other a spray or roller is quick for spreading and turning to all 4 sides is far better than painting a structure.

i have some joist timbers used as a raised bed and they seem fine touching soil and exposed to rain etc as a seat top so i recon the stuff used for indoor preserving works ok outside.

re slippery decking there are non slip coatings and maintenance dressings but keeping it clean with a pressure washer reduces the problem a lot (pub knowledge).

Nick

Joined: 02 Nov 2004
Posts: 34535
Location: Hereford

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 15 2:16 pm Post subject:
I'll production line creosote the smooth timber. The actual decking is composite, so not an issue.

dpack

Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 46238
Location: yes

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 15 3:41 pm Post subject:

dip the ends first and let the capillary action slurp for 30 mins each end ,it isnt time wasted and treating ends seems to be more important than middles based on replacing lots of rotten timbers in a variety of structures over several decades.

if you are drilling holes for bolts remember to do them as best you can when "painting" ,when fitting screws,coach screws etc give em a quick squirt as you drive em in .use either non rusting fixings or rust resistant coated ones (painted mild steel is carp for brackets etc )

ppe matters with preservatives cos they kill stuff

Hairyloon

Joined: 20 Nov 2008
Posts: 15425
Location: Today I are mostly being in Yorkshire.

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 15 4:04 pm Post subject:
Yes, don't be fooled into thinking that pressure treatment means the whole thing is rot resistant. It is a thicker barrier than paint, but still just a barrier.

Mistress Rose

Joined: 21 Jul 2011
Posts: 15987

Posted: Fri May 01, 15 6:09 am Post subject:
I agree with the others about additional treatment, and in addition if you can raise it off the ground with bricks it will last a lot longer. Make sure whatever you raise it on is firm and won't move with time.

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