There is a risk of Chelara ash die back particularly in the east of the country. Possibly not the best thing to plant at present. As far as coppicing is concerned, it is a matter of opinion. I spoke to someone from the Forestry Commission about this, and her opinion, having studied the subject deeply, is that once the regrowth reaches 10 years old it is no more susceptible to the disease than an uncoppiced tree. If your ash is likely to die because of other problems like but rot, then best to coppice or you will definitely lose the tree.
I would suggest looking to see which trees are growing well where you are. Beech doesn't always coppice well; it is often grown as pollards instead. Hazel will coppice very easily but will take perhaps 15 years to get to firewood size. Sycamore and field maple both coppice well and will make reasonable firewood. Sweet chestnut will coppice easily and us usually run on something like a 20 year cycle the same as ash, but it only burns well if it is well seasoned.
Tavascarow
Joined: 06 Aug 2006 Posts: 8407 Location: South Cornwall
Posted: Sat Aug 02, 14 4:24 pm Post subject:
I tend to think the other way.
The more ash planted now the better.
More ash equals more chance of finding those resistant seedlings.
Just don't buy in plants from god knows where, collect local seed.
If they die they can always be replaced with something else.
I tend to think the other way.
The more ash planted now the better.
More ash equals more chance of finding those resistant seedlings.
Just don't buy in plants from god knows where, collect local seed.
If they die they can always be replaced with something else.
I'm with you there, everything I've heard says ash is very diverse so who know your seedlings might contain 1 or 2 resistant trees
Ash is very susceptible to ash die back in its early years, so not really sure now is the time to be planting new seedlings. Having said that, the seedlings come up like grass in some places in our wood and we are hoping at least some of them will be resistant. An alternative might be to wait until some resistant seedling come onto the market from British grown seed, or until a method of protection is developed. Both are currently underway.
Walking round the wood yesterday, I came across an ash tree that has butt rot; fairly common on our soil, and there was a hornets nest in the bottom. That is the second hornets nest we have found in the last couple of weeks. Rather pleased about it, although it does mean we can't do anything with either tree until late winter when the hornets have finished with them.
Lloyd, I am not surprised your charcoal experiment didn't work. The best way is to put the wood into the container then free burn until the smoke starts to clear a bit. Then put the lid on and restrict the air flow. Don't open up and add more wood. When the smoke goes more blueish it is done, so shut down completely. We haven't done much with oil drums, but that is a rough idea for you.
wellington womble
Joined: 08 Nov 2004 Posts: 15051 Location: East Midlands
Posted: Mon Aug 04, 14 8:00 am Post subject:
Thank you all. Ash is such a good front runner, there doesn't seem to be a clear second place. I'd love sweet chestnut, but have heard it doesn't do well locally. I know willow is fast growing, but I feel that the payoff in fast burning is not worth the extra handling of volume (my workforce consists of me) there may be ash locally, of course. Can I legally dig up seedlings? I don't know the area very well, yet.
I will probably stick with tradition and grow hazel coppice with oak standards. I like hazel, and I know there is some onsite already as well as a couple of huge hoarse chestnuts. With some sweet chestnuts to see how they go.
Sweet chestnut likes acid soil WW. It will grow on a clay cap over chalk, but just won't take to chalk well. There have been a few planted in the woodland complex we are at the end of, and we wait to see whether the clay is thick enough.
Hazel is good on more alkaline soils, but to get it to burning size you need to leave it perhaps 20 years, as with most trees. If you already have some hazel, you can get more by layering to either expand the area or to produce more seedlings to replant. Burying the nuts also produces seedlings quite readily.
I think you can dig up seedlings, but you would need the land owners permission.
dan1
Joined: 23 Jun 2010 Posts: 102 Location: Bristolish
Posted: Fri Sep 12, 14 11:03 am Post subject:
Poplar doesnt seem to be very poplar as a firewood (see what I did there!),
But it grows quick and copices well with easy straight chop-uppable poles. Ive taken down a couple of big trees (black poplar) and then harvested the coppice + it burns fine if seasoned.
If they grow very fast, I suspect they are hybrid, but I would do more research to make sure. Poplar was grown for matches for years, but suddenly the match industry didn't want them. Total pain, because matches are useless these days, and there are lots of poplar plantations falling over because they are not being cut and they are not too wind firm.
iirc poplar is also rather good at removing metals from polluted land/water
gregotyn
Joined: 24 Jun 2010 Posts: 2201 Location: Llanfyllin area
Posted: Tue Sep 16, 14 2:42 pm Post subject:
Years ago in my sawmilling time, we cut poplar for pallet blocks. It was a strange timber to burn, very slow and burned as a block with the ashes staying the same size/shape as the block of timber started and not a particularly 'hot' burn, but it was free! It is still used as a pallet bearer/block, but I avoid it, especially fresh cut, needs a couple of years to be of much use on the fire.
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