If your worried about the nut`s coming undone,and welding a blob could be a problem,one sure way to stop the undoing is to cut a slot in the bolt with a junior hacksaw before assembly ,then splay the slot after tightening the nut.
Difficult cutting s/s bolts with hacksaw.....might be best to damage the threads with hammer and cold chisel.
RichardW
Joined: 24 Aug 2006 Posts: 8443 Location: Llyn Peninsular North Wales
Posted: Mon Nov 30, 15 4:27 pm Post subject:
Forget the mig. The cost of sorting it out to weld ali would be more than the job is worth. You will need different gas, different wire & to change the liner in the torch. It will also take lots of practice to do.
vegplot
Joined: 19 Apr 2007 Posts: 21301 Location: Bethesda, Gwynedd
Posted: Mon Nov 30, 15 5:05 pm Post subject:
A trick to bending aluminium and getting the heat just right is to rub the surface with tablet soap. As you heat the part the soap will eventually turn brown which just happens to be the point at which aluminium is most malleable but before it melts. However, it will lose any strength gained by prior heat treatment so this technique shouldn't be used on critical parts that have been heat treated.
A trick to bending aluminium and getting the heat just right is to rub the surface with tablet soap. As you heat the part the soap will eventually turn brown which just happens to be the point at which aluminium is most malleable but before it melts. However, it will lose any strength gained by prior heat treatment so this technique shouldn't be used on critical parts that have been heat treated.
Forget the mig. The cost of sorting it out to weld ali would be more than the job is worth. You will need different gas, different wire & to change the liner in the torch. It will also take lots of practice to do.
I didn't know I'd have to change the liner - but at the end of the shift - if you have the mig - why not play with it ?
I'd rather play with some plate first though in honesty !
If you had a British motorbike in the sixties you had to have gallons of Hermatite Red and Green.
In the late sixties I had a choice between a new Honda which came with electric start, indicators, etc or a new Triumph which came with a free oil drip tray.
If you had a British motorbike in the sixties you had to have gallons of Hermatite Red and Green.
In the late sixties I had a choice between a new Honda which came with electric start, indicators, etc or a new Triumph which came with a free oil drip tray.
Doesn't that sit with a load of truth Graham ? - my old man's mate gave us a pillion ride on the back of a 305 Honda way back then - Jeezuus - there was nothing british which would do what it did - even tho' it sounded like a tin of nails rattling away !
I didn't know I'd have to change the liner - but at the end of the shift - if you have the mig - why not play with it ?
I'd rather play with some plate first though in honesty !
The steel line (like a net curtain wire) will "pick up" the soft alloy. Even if you have the right teflon liner it will now be full of steel which will affect the weld. Its also better if you have a short torch as you need to keep the feed as straight as possible. You can get adapters that puts the roll on the gun end that gets round some of the issues. But not good for access.
Having to rent a second cylinder might still put you off. Also migging alloy is not that easy or neat.
I didn't know I'd have to change the liner - but at the end of the shift - if you have the mig - why not play with it ?
I'd rather play with some plate first though in honesty !
The steel line (like a net curtain wire) will "pick up" the soft alloy. Even if you have the right teflon liner it will now be full of steel which will affect the weld. Its also better if you have a short torch as you need to keep the feed as straight as possible. You can get adapters that puts the roll on the gun end that gets round some of the issues. But not good for access.
Having to rent a second cylinder might still put you off. Also migging alloy is not that easy or neat.
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