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Tanning a hide- 10 easy steps to a well cured pelt or hide.
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Barefoot Andrew
Downsizer Moderator


Joined: 21 Mar 2007
Posts: 22780
Location: In the 17th century
PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 09 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

The post at the head of this thread has now been articlified here.
A.

 
unlacedgecko



Joined: 21 Nov 2009
Posts: 32

PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 09 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

i have recently been tanning some fox pelts with a battery acid and table salt reicipe i found on the internet. i will publish photos once i finish. so far i have done two pelts, they are a little dry and stiff at the moment tho. but i do have some neats foot oil to massage into them. hopefully this will soften them up and make them more flexible.

 
kevin.vinke



Joined: 19 Dec 2006
Posts: 1304
Location: Niedersachsen, Germany
PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 09 12:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

I have two fairly small sheep skins which I want to try. They are very mucky though and it�s freezing outside! Any reason they couldn�t be put through the washing machine? For the first stage.

 
Cathryn



Joined: 16 Jul 2005
Posts: 19856
Location: Ceredigion
PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 09 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Might make them a bit cloggy? I have washed sheepskin rugs in the machine though and they come oiut fine.

I am still annoyed that the ill tempered abbatoir owner could not be bothered to keep mine. Even when asked nicely and reminded. We hadn't shorn the lambs with this is in mind and one was a nice Jacob. We shan't be using him again. He might be a good butcher but aside from that he has nothing to recommend him.

 
sally_in_wales
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Joined: 06 Mar 2005
Posts: 20809
Location: sunny wales
PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 09 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

I'd worry about felting the hair side in the washing machine, but if you felt a 'wool wash' cycle would be gentle enough, aand that the machine could cope with the amount of dirt that might come off, then it could be worth a go.

I might be more tempted to wash in the bath and put through a spin cycle in the machine to get it dry enough to deal with?

 
kevin.vinke



Joined: 19 Dec 2006
Posts: 1304
Location: Niedersachsen, Germany
PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 09 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

sally_in_wales wrote:
I'd worry about felting the hair side in the washing machine, but if you felt a 'wool wash' cycle would be gentle enough, aand that the machine could cope with the amount of dirt that might come off, then it could be worth a go.

I might be more tempted to wash in the bath and put through a spin cycle in the machine to get it dry enough to deal with?


Ok will try the smallest first, nothing vetured and if it doesn�t work try the bath method. Thanks Sally.

 
kevin.vinke



Joined: 19 Dec 2006
Posts: 1304
Location: Niedersachsen, Germany
PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 09 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Just a quick update. I ended up putting both through the washing machine. On the wool setting 30 degrees extra rinse and 1000 rpm spin. Came out much cleaner, still a few bits of poo but uch better.

 
dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 46244
Location: yes
PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 09 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

a wire dog brush works wonders on fur/dags

less wriggling with a skin as well

 
Stormcrow



Joined: 17 May 2006
Posts: 33
Location: Lincolnshire
PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 10 2:11 pm    Post subject: sheepskin Reply with quote
    

We have just started working on our first sheepskin and are following your 10 point plan. The scraping is now done and we have put it in the pickle. However, we noticed that after scraping the wool was peeling from the skin in patches. Have we done something wrong?

 
Pea



Joined: 19 Sep 2005
Posts: 960
Location: Rugby
PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 11 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

I have used Sally's recipe on a sheep skin which worked really well but I have since been told that the salt and alum only preserve it and not to get it wet. It is on the bedroom floor so will never get wet.

With this in mind I spoke to Snowdonia Taxidermists as I want to use the next skins (rabbit and fox) for a hat and boot liners, which may get wet. They advised me that I would need a process that is irreversible, so getting the pelt wet then would not be a problem.

There are so many different processes it is a minefield. I am finding the rabbit skins very difficult to scrape as they are so thin.

 
Welshy



Joined: 25 Jun 2011
Posts: 38
Location: North Wales
PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 11 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Thanks for sharing how to do that as I am in the process of getting some meat rabbits for breeding for an continues supply of meat

...and come to think of it the fur I could use to make a throw for my sofa

 
regan



Joined: 06 Aug 2013
Posts: 1

PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 13 11:09 am    Post subject: tanning Reply with quote
    

ive used this method for a couple years, have done bobby calves, possums, deer skins and have currently started a cattle hide, i think it works good. when im doing small skins i stretch it and nail it to a board, i make a mixture and add flour to make a paste and brush a layer on every day for a week then wash it off, i find this works better then soaking it in a barrel especially on small game skins. i also sand the skin with fine sandpaper before i oil it, brings it up real good. im hoping this cattle hide turns out, its the biggest skin ive done.

id love to know a quicker way to remove fat then using a knife as this process sucks.

 
sally_in_wales
Downsizer Moderator


Joined: 06 Mar 2005
Posts: 20809
Location: sunny wales
PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 13 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

what an interesting variation, I'll give that a try sometime. Does ambient humidity affect the flour based process? Round here its so soggy I can imagine a flour paste absorbing a lot of moisture even under cover?

 
SteveP



Joined: 23 Jan 2008
Posts: 155
Location: North Devon
PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 16 8:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Sorry about re-awakening an old thread but how do you safely dispose of the salt and alum mix when you have a septic tank instead of mains drainage?

Tipping it onto the ground will kill it and the salts will leach out further than where it was tipped. There is no disposal tank at the council tip for that stuff. An unscrupulous person would use the road drain but there must be a legal safe method.

 
Treacodactyl
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Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 25795
Location: Jumping on the bandwagon of opportunism
PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 16 9:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

We have this problem as well. Having tried to do the right thing and take old car coolant to the tip and then see the tip personnel throw it into the landfill skip it would seem most stuff will end up in landfill.

With that in mind I've mixed small amounts of stuff with fire ash and other absorbent material and put it in the rubbish.

Longer term I'll sort out some form of solar drier to evaporate as much water as possible first.

 
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