You only need a vice to hold the middle of the chainsaw and a chainsaw sharpening file which is a round file. It is what we use, but you do need to know how to use them properly, otherwise all the other kit is probably the best bet. I assume by now that you know what you are doing as you have all limbs and digits intact.
Slim
Joined: 05 Mar 2006 Posts: 6614 Location: New England (In the US of A)
Posted: Mon Jun 07, 21 10:04 am Post subject:
I really like the roller guide. I think I've used it enough that I know have a better chance of freehand sharpening successfully, should I need to.
I've never used a voice on the bar, but my Husqvarna is pretty heavy, and doesn't really move about on me that much when I sharpen.
i have a vague idea and all my limbs, making every tooth the exact angle is much easier with the clamp guide thing
for many tools i use some sort of honing guide, even if it is my hand pressure along the bench or blade
for any sort of saw i need a guide or a very long time and maybe a new saw blade
i can just about manage a carpenter's cross-cut freehand(plenty of practice) but owt else needs a guide or a mr man and his magic machines
double on that for chainsaw chains, especially if adjusting them to the timber being cut
my tutor made quite a point( ) of using the correct profiles for the job (cherry is different to larch etc) and regular setting for a clean, safe, effective cut does make life easier and longer for machine and user
ps in extremis, rip cut a vertical slot into a convenient stump, add two small two twig wedges= woodsperson's filing bench with a vice and the only sharpening tool needed is a file
In the woods, as you say, improvisation is the key. Most saws are heavy enough to stand stable, but better to clamp them in some way if possible.
gregotyn
Joined: 24 Jun 2010 Posts: 2201 Location: Llanfyllin area
Posted: Thu Jul 15, 21 2:30 pm Post subject:
I just use a round file for the size of the blade and your local chain saw shop will/should tell you the size and off you go and buy one from wherever you want to. I bought a saw and it came with 2 files. I have found one thing a small electric chain saw is much lighter and much quieter than messing about with petrol and mixing it up, and the electric saw starts every time for me and no ache in my arms! I have a lot of big planks to cut up just to get it in the pickup and it is fast and as I say easy-on off switch and a trigger to start the blade. 2 batteries last a day at least when I am cutting and carting timber, mainly pallets.
We recently bought an electric chainsaw, and while it isn't good for cutting large trees, it is ideal for smaller work, coppice and cutting up odd things. I don't use chainsaws as even the electric one terrifies me (best to have a healthy respect for dangerous things, not outright fear imo) but husband finds it a great deal easier as he is finding a petrol one a bit heavy these days. They are expensive, but worth the investment if you are doing smaller work.
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 25795 Location: Jumping on the bandwagon of opportunism
Posted: Sat Jul 17, 21 7:06 pm Post subject:
Like most things, if you work your way up after a bit of training then chainsaws seem fine. Possibly not worth dwelling on the fact many saws will slice right through protective clothing...
Many accidents seem to be down to improper use of top handle saws as far as I can see.
I do like my battery Stihl for light work but I still use my petrol saws for anything large, especially ash. Probably time to buy a decent pro-felling saw to deal with all the large ash trees that will need to be cleared.
my big husky is fine for anything up to about 3 feet across(with a bit of beever style) and will drop a 2 footer easily
so far i have found no timber wet or dry that it cannot eat
even with cat3 ppe i am very aware of not making errors
i do not use it often, that means reminding myself of the issues when i do, spose that is the flipside to using one every day and getting casual
of all the scary things i have worked or played with chainsaws are in the top few for be really careful
(that includes finding out how fast you can add NAPS to a reaction mass without the temp going over 2 degrees C and dying when the building changes shape)
my best chainsaw advice is spend a lot of money for a week training and then be very careful, i still have all my parts so i would say that
I would certainly agree that training and correct PPE are essential. It worries me that some shops, and online, will sell chainsaws without even mentioning the PPE, let alone training.
last week SD and SIL mentioned an extended relly had just bought a cheapo "domestic" saw from somewhere.
they understood my reaction and explanations
best i have seen was a 9 foot pole with a 12 " bar on the top and a wee engine at the bottom
£87 , "good for high branches", "ideal for garden use", "comes with hedge trimmer attachment"
We have one similar, but it is naturally treated with great respect. Very good for taking down small branches that are in a dangerous position, but definitely not for an amateur without training and PPE. Branches are cut back a foot or two at a time. Anything more difficult needs our pet tree surgeon to climb the next tree over to do the removal.
) of using the correct profiles for the job (cherry is different to larch etc) and regular setting for a clean, safe, effective cut does make life easier and longer for machine and user
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