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dougal
Joined: 15 Jan 2005 Posts: 7184 Location: South Kent
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Posted: Mon Aug 01, 05 1:16 pm Post subject: |
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cab wrote: |
dougal wrote: |
I have supposed that the products of yeast digestion of the more complex sugars in the flour (maltose, amylose?) would produce compounds which, on cooking, actually produce a depth of varied flavour, rather than simple cooked starch. |
Bread yeasts, although they're the same species as wine and beer yeasts, don't go entirely anaerobic very quickly; ... Try using a wine yeast for making bread and a bread yeast for wine.
It's worth thinking about the ecology of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, our common yeast. Wild yeast lives most productively on fruits; the blook on grapes and plums, the yeast that makes elderberries ferment quickly, that's the stuff. ... cometabolising other compounds in the fruit to produce other aromatics ... |
Its this diversity that interests me.
One hears of bakers using specific ("ripe") fruits in their sourdough starters - to catch specific strains of yeast. So as to produce particular "side reactions", and a more complex, satisfying flavour in the bread.
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It isn't well adapted to degrading polysaccharides; ... |
And I had gathered that malted flour was a good source of the amylase that would do that specific job.
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So it really is relying on free sugar to get it going. Now there's ALWAYS some free sugar, especially in malted grain flour of course. |
But that would more likely be maltose than glucose/fructose?
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But the quality of the rise you get depends not only on free sugar; a good gluten content is needed, and if you've got too many whole or chaffy grains you'll end up cutting down on rising by breaking up the gluten chains. |
Yes agreed, you not only need to generate the CO2 gas (and steam during the "spring") but you need the gluten network to provide the tensile strength and elastic extensibility to retain the gas, in expanded bubbles, during the rising and cooking of the loaf.
My point was that the added (sucrose) sugar provided a dependable source of plenty CO2 for the compromised conditions inside an automated breadmaker.
I tend to add things like porridge oats and pumpkin seeds after kneading and bulk fermentation, and to try to do it 'lightly', a bit like folding in a souffl�. |
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cab
Joined: 01 Nov 2004 Posts: 32429
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Posted: Mon Aug 01, 05 1:30 pm Post subject: |
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dougal wrote: |
Its this diversity that interests me.
One hears of bakers using specific ("ripe") fruits in their sourdough starters - to catch specific strains of yeast. So as to produce particular "side reactions", and a more complex, satisfying flavour in the bread.
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I can see that working. There's also an old Chinese bread that used fermenting crab apples for a source of sourdough.
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And I had gathered that malted flour was a good source of the amylase that would do that specific job. |
It is. That's why often malted four can be a good one that doesn't need sugar in it... But as there are more bits in it, you're often as well adding some sugar for even more kick.
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But that would more likely be maltose than glucose/fructose? |
Which is fine, as yeast has a maltase enzyme to split the maltose to a useable product.
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Yes agreed, you not only need to generate the CO2 gas (and steam during the "spring") but you need the gluten network to provide the tensile strength and elastic extensibility to retain the gas, in expanded bubbles, during the rising and cooking of the loaf.
My point was that the added (sucrose) sugar provided a dependable source of plenty CO2 for the compromised conditions inside an automated breadmaker. |
Yeah, more or less that's why it's added. Remember as well that most bread machine baking is done with dried yeast that hasn't been activated; you're starting off with a lagging strain, so you need a good set of conditions (lots of free carbob helps) to get it going. Basic microbiology, the yeast wants the sugar to get its metabolism off the ground in a hurry, and in bread machine baking that can make a difference.
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I tend to add things like porridge oats and pumpkin seeds after kneading and bulk fermentation, and to try to do it 'lightly', a bit like folding in a souffl�. |
Bread machines, many of them at least, also add such ingredients in later. Handy, that. |
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ButteryHOLsomeness
Joined: 03 Apr 2005 Posts: 770
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ButteryHOLsomeness
Joined: 03 Apr 2005 Posts: 770
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ButteryHOLsomeness
Joined: 03 Apr 2005 Posts: 770
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bagpuss
Joined: 09 Dec 2004 Posts: 10507 Location: cambridge
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ButteryHOLsomeness
Joined: 03 Apr 2005 Posts: 770
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dougal
Joined: 15 Jan 2005 Posts: 7184 Location: South Kent
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Posted: Mon Aug 01, 05 2:55 pm Post subject: |
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cab wrote: |
dougal wrote: |
Its this diversity that interests me.
... to produce particular "side reactions", and a more complex, satisfying flavour in the bread. |
I can see that working.
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And I had gathered that malted flour was a good source of the amylase that would do that specific job. |
It is. That's why often malted four can be a good one that doesn't need sugar in it... But as there are more bits in it, you're often as well adding some sugar for even more kick.
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But that would more likely be maltose than glucose/fructose? |
Which is fine, as yeast has a maltase enzyme to split the maltose to a useable product.
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IMHO, one of the reasons that commercial bread has such a bland (lack of) flavour is very likely to be its relative lack of diversity in its chemistry and biochemistry.
Getting "more going on" has to be good for creating more, and more interesting flavours.
Which would be why using a mixture of different flours, even in small quantities, can 'bring out' flavour. And diverse strains of yeast.
Whereas plain yeast acting largely on added sucrose, whose alcohol and CO2 are flavourless and largely lost, can't be releasing much flavour from the flour. (Flour on its own, or as a paste, or cooked on its own without browning (even as an unleavened paste) doesn't taste good, or of much.)
Yes, americans (especially) love the taste of sucrose, so the residual presence of some would appeal to them.
But for 'interesting' and 'characterful' flavour in bread, one has to involve and activate the chemistry of more complex carbohydrates.
I find that "Malted" and "Granary" flours (even though they have only a small malt content) do give a characteristic (strong) "malt" flavour.
Initially, I cut back on the quantity of Granary, and only a tiny amount did produce an improved flavour.
However, having discovered that Rye would provide the Amylase (without the malt's own flavour) I've switched to that - 2 dessert spoonfuls added to 400gm of wheat flours (plus whatever is in the pre-ferment) makes a nice difference.
Peter Reinhart (american breadmaking guru) asserts that well-worked amylase (plus oven steam) makes for a dramatically flavoursome crust. I can't prove it scientifically, but I certainly wouldn't disagree. He mixes cooled ingredients and holds at fridge temp for 24 hours before a short and warm bulk fermentation. I use room temp ingredients and allow an overnight, room temp fermentation with amylase supplied by the rye. It works for me!
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I tend to add things like porridge oats and pumpkin seeds after kneading and bulk fermentation, and to try to do it 'lightly', a bit like folding in a souffl�. |
Bread machines, many of them at least, also add such ingredients in later. Handy, that. |
Indeed, little compartments to drop in such additions, late in the cycle.
My reason for noting it, is that this is hardly universal practice among manual breadmakers.
Adding "extra solid bits", like nuts, seeds, whole or rolled grains *after* kneading and fermenting *does* produce a lighter loaf. Its a useful tip to be aware of. |
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bagpuss
Joined: 09 Dec 2004 Posts: 10507 Location: cambridge
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tawny owl
Joined: 29 Apr 2005 Posts: 563 Location: Hampshire
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bagpuss
Joined: 09 Dec 2004 Posts: 10507 Location: cambridge
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wellington womble
Joined: 08 Nov 2004 Posts: 15051 Location: East Midlands
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Posted: Tue Aug 02, 05 10:55 am Post subject: |
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Oh dear, I really must have ranted about that! It's not the added sugar that was the problem, it was just being told that you 'need' it, when it was much better bread without. I suspect a lot of breadmakers bad reputations are the fault of the evil villain, sugar!
Actually, I do object to sugars and sweetners being added to so much - we had an instant pasta sauce the other day, which must have been full of the stuff - it was like drinking diet coke or something, and was horrible! I find myself reducing sugar in alsorts of things I make, and one of the reasons I make stuff, is cos I can mess about with sugar and salt contents - I'm a fussy so an so. I don't know about whether sugar is addictive, or the health implications, althoguh I don't doubt it has some.
I'm pretty sure I'm not addicted to sugar, but not so lucky as you might think buttery, as I'm totally adicted to cheese and butter instead! I tend to watch salt, and attempt to watch saturated fat and booze (well a bit, anyway) I don't worry about sugar, cos we rarely eat processed food or sweet stuff.
oh - and I'll leave the biochemistry to cab - I haven't a clue about it, but you really can make better bread with no sugar in, honest! |
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Stacey
Joined: 18 Jul 2005 Posts: 8380 Location: Kernow
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Bugs
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 10744
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Stacey
Joined: 18 Jul 2005 Posts: 8380 Location: Kernow
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